Mountaineering

9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes

9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes

  • Downloads：5602
  • Type：Epub+TxT+PDF+Mobi
  • Create Date：2021-10-23 09:55:25
  • Update Date：2025-09-07
  • Status：finish
  • Author：Dave MacLeod
  • ISBN：095642810X
  • Environment：PC/Android/iPhone/iPad/Kindle
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Summary

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck。 They are stuck on the same things。 Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation， managing time， and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors。 But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons。 Twenty years ago， the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing。 Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants。 Today， it's the opposite problem。 Book after book lists techniques for climbing， exercises for climbing， tips for climbing。 Navigating this barrage of information， filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life， your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber。 This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference。 Dave Macleod has crystallised 16 years experience as a world class climber， sport scientist and renowned coach into an accessible and thought provoking guide to improving at rock climbing。

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Reviews

Marjan ，

Great book and at some point it seemed unstructured， however full of useful tips and points。 It is very useful and I'll re-read it。 Great book and at some point it seemed unstructured， however full of useful tips and points。 It is very useful and I'll re-read it。 。。。more

Matt Desenberg ，

Excellent， practical advice from one of the best。

Jamie D。 ，

An absolute classic in hard climbing performance。 Worth revisiting from time to time。

Erling Fasting ，

Good advice but most of it goes without saying。 The chapter on falling could have used some more advice about how people on lower grade routes （like me） should fix it， since the routes we climb generally don't lend themselves that much to falling over and over。 Good advice but most of it goes without saying。 The chapter on falling could have used some more advice about how people on lower grade routes （like me） should fix it， since the routes we climb generally don't lend themselves that much to falling over and over。 。。。more

Paul ，

-more self help and general tactics than specific training methods or plans （not necessarily a bad thing thing）-liked that a large part of the advice boiled down to， to improve climbing climb more climb different and move out of your comfort zone-The "bouldering" monkeys face on the cover looks like a crudely drawn dick -more self help and general tactics than specific training methods or plans （not necessarily a bad thing thing）-liked that a large part of the advice boiled down to， to improve climbing climb more climb different and move out of your comfort zone-The "bouldering" monkeys face on the cover looks like a crudely drawn dick 。。。more

Meixtr_ ，

If you haven't read Eric Horst's climbing training book yet， read it。 If you've already read it， read it again。 If you haven't read Eric Horst's climbing training book yet， read it。 If you've already read it， read it again。 。。。more

Dwight Schmidt ，

1。 You are afraid of falling， practice it more。2。 You are sticking to what you know too often。3。 You are still afraid of falling。4。 Really， you are afraid of falling。

Sohini ，

100% recommend。

Lara Thompson ，

The best book on climbing for intermediate climbers I've ever come across。 Others complain that it's too disorganized， and， yes it's not presented most easily to drift about it， but such undisguised useful advice is rare to find。 His discussion on momentum is the first I've seen in such detail。 If you want detailed discussion on hangboard training: https://strengthclimbing。com/finger-s。。。。 For those wanting more on technique see John kettle's book。 The best book on climbing for intermediate climbers I've ever come across。 Others complain that it's too disorganized， and， yes it's not presented most easily to drift about it， but such undisguised useful advice is rare to find。 His discussion on momentum is the first I've seen in such detail。 If you want detailed discussion on hangboard training: https://strengthclimbing。com/finger-s。。。。 For those wanting more on technique see John kettle's book。 。。。more

Wade Z ，

me reading that maybe my climbing isn't limited by the fact that I can't do a weighted one arm pull up on the 20mm:*surprised pikachu face*A good book worth re-reading for anybody interested in training their climbing， with a wide variety of physical/mental notes。 I find it weird that the only image in the book is a weird graph that is much more easily explained in words than the dynamic movements。 me reading that maybe my climbing isn't limited by the fact that I can't do a weighted one arm pull up on the 20mm:*surprised pikachu face*A good book worth re-reading for anybody interested in training their climbing， with a wide variety of physical/mental notes。 I find it weird that the only image in the book is a weird graph that is much more easily explained in words than the dynamic movements。 。。。more

Деян Милчев ，

I made the goal to re-read every 6 months。 My 4th time now。 It's amazing how improving as a climber makes you appreciate different parts of the book。 Seeing the biggest takeaways in your climbing and working on them， first starts with recognition and changing of your philosophy of climbing and this book is great to provoke the necessary thoughts for this to happen。 I made the goal to re-read every 6 months。 My 4th time now。 It's amazing how improving as a climber makes you appreciate different parts of the book。 Seeing the biggest takeaways in your climbing and working on them， first starts with recognition and changing of your philosophy of climbing and this book is great to provoke the necessary thoughts for this to happen。 。。。more

Sébastien Cyrenne-Bergeron ，

Really obvious message

Keith Button ，

This reads kind of like an extended blog post more than a book but I found a lot of value in it。 In all likelihood， it will highlight a blindspot in your climbing identity that will make you say "holy shit， I can't believe I've been doing this for XX years。" It won't provide any "quick fixes" to your deficiencies but will help you layout a long-term pathway to becoming a better， more balanced， climber。 This reads kind of like an extended blog post more than a book but I found a lot of value in it。 In all likelihood， it will highlight a blindspot in your climbing identity that will make you say "holy shit， I can't believe I've been doing this for XX years。" It won't provide any "quick fixes" to your deficiencies but will help you layout a long-term pathway to becoming a better， more balanced， climber。 。。。more

Cameo ，

Pretty generic but good for those who are new to the sport。

Sam ，

A lot of solid information。 Will require a second read with a highlighter。 Lots of wisdom on mental and physical elements of climbing and the pitfalls that people make/ intentionally take。

Teitur Helgason ，

It is a quick read and there is some good advice in there but it lacks focus and good structure。 It for example seems to be intended for climbers of all skill levels and in any form of climbing but then it spends a lot of time talking about topics that feel very niche to me。

Yaqing Li ，

Don't read if you are looking for answers。 Don't read if you are looking for answers。 。。。more

Jose Antunes ，

Great book go increase your sense of awareness over climbing training。

Andrej ，

This book definitely changed the way I think about my climbing training and made me to climb more。

Yapee ，

The book provides more questions than answers， but I don't think it's a bad thing。 I would say it's more of an overview of various aspects of training for climbing and more broadly thinking about climbing that one might want to investigate。 Furthermore， it presents the author's rather interesting approach to handling all of that。 Perhaps one criticism I would leverage is that a little too much of the discussion on outlook and technique is replicated in Make or Break， so if you only want to read The book provides more questions than answers， but I don't think it's a bad thing。 I would say it's more of an overview of various aspects of training for climbing and more broadly thinking about climbing that one might want to investigate。 Furthermore， it presents the author's rather interesting approach to handling all of that。 Perhaps one criticism I would leverage is that a little too much of the discussion on outlook and technique is replicated in Make or Break， so if you only want to read one of them， I'd recommend that one。 。。。more

T P ，

Great book but the author needs a little more editing to make the book flow better。

Tpinetz ，

Dave MacLeod is a famous climber and this book is really well done。 Sure a lot of the parts are similar to what you read on the internet， but Dave has this ability to really get to the important points and explain what has worked for him and why in a concise way。

Lukas ，

A must-read book for every climber。 MacLeod knows what he‘s talking about and hammers it home clearly and honestly。 That being said， the writing and structure is not as poignant as it could be。 I am going to do some fall training now， if you‘ll excuse me。

Alex Hermansson ，

An essential read for every ambitious climber。 I've learned new things every time I reread it！ An essential read for every ambitious climber。 I've learned new things every time I reread it！ 。。。more

Amélie Brouillard ，

he's got a point。 now i have to go through it again in order to come up with my own training plan。 this is for serious climbers。 he's got a point。 now i have to go through it again in order to come up with my own training plan。 this is for serious climbers。 。。。more

Jenny Schauroth ，

I've learnt so much about various aspects of climbing。 Highly recommended！ I've learnt so much about various aspects of climbing。 Highly recommended！ 。。。more

Alpha ，

3。5/5 - Not a lot that was really new or surprising for me， but supports a lot of what I previously had read， and has a lot of generally good advice if you aren’t already somewhat into athletic performance。

Gintaras ，

It's alright It's alright 。。。more

Kayla Hendrickson ，

Read it。 Send it。

Sean Goh ，

Difficult to parse due to little meaningful organisation。 Contains thought-provoking content like suck it up and work on your weaknesses， and be kind to yourself。 Climb smart， keep at it， short term pain for long-term gains。The rest is details。___It's crucial to think through how others see your climbing， and the effect of your expectations of yourself。 Climbers often have unrealistic expectations of themselves， for example to be able to reproduce previous highpoints of performance after a layof Difficult to parse due to little meaningful organisation。 Contains thought-provoking content like suck it up and work on your weaknesses， and be kind to yourself。 Climb smart， keep at it， short term pain for long-term gains。The rest is details。___It's crucial to think through how others see your climbing， and the effect of your expectations of yourself。 Climbers often have unrealistic expectations of themselves， for example to be able to reproduce previous highpoints of performance after a layoff。 The first step is to really honest with yourself about the true level of your climbing， and how restricted it is to certain strengths you have。 Then understand how little your performance ultimately matters to others。 See yourself as the underdog。 Spending time working in the comfort of your strengths or relying on them borrows strength from your best assets of talents。 But borrowing strength builds weakness。 Technique training - replaying movements of recent climbs and analysing peculiarities and subtleties。 Both actual climbing and reflection are important components of the learning process。Break habits of climbing passively without thinking too much。Strength is only useful when it can be applied fully。 Momentum use gives your strength a huge amount of leverage。Look for the board/angle/move type you are weakest on， and spend two to three sessions on that per one session on in your comfort zone type of climbing。The nature of static contractions of the forearm muscle when we grip holds also limits aerobic metabolism by squeezing muscle blood vesel shut under pressure， interrupting the supply of oxygen。Complete exhaustion of muscle glycogen stores happens after many hours straight climbing， or too many consecutive days training for the body to recover from。 This significantly extends recovery time。 This feeling is one of rapid and complete loss of strength， where even massive holds are a struggle to hold on to。Fear of falling， if left unchecked， changes your movement technique in a subtle way， making it more inefficient and affecting you on every climb you try。 Over control attempts， like overgripping and climbing statically， emerge。Age isn't a barrier to getting good at climbing。 Usually the barriers are mental。 A common error in choosing the climbs to do to get better at climbing is to climb only routes at your current level。 This is not the way training works。 Climbing above your level will cause falls， struggles and pain。 And eventually you'll improve。The only inertia working in opposition to this desire for breakthrough is fear。 Fear of loss， fear of effort and fear of failure。 Getting past these isn't easy。 The desire simply has to outweigh the short term pain。 Know that pain wil be short term really helps。 Once that happens， the real improvement can start。 。。。more

Reference

google book https://www.google.com/search?tbm=bks&q=9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes

hathitrust digital library https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/ls?q1=9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes&field1=ocr&a=srchls&ft=ft&lmt=ft

The British Library https://bll01.primo.exlibrisgroup.com/discovery/search?query=any,contains,9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes&tab=LibraryCatalog&search_scope=Not_BL_Suppress&vid=44BL_INST:BLL01&lang=en&offset=0